Immortalised by artists such as Gaugin and adorning countless postcards, biscuit tins and souvenir plates, the traditional women’s headdresses of Brittany, the c’hoef (or coiffe), are one of the region’s iconic images. Descended from the religiously-inspired headgear of the Middle Ages, the now emblematic knitted embroidered headdresses evolved gradually over time, reaching their apogee in the late 19th and early 20th century.

At its core, the traditional Breton headdress of the 17th century had four main elements created from the two large quadrangular sections of the, once popular, medieval veil: the visagière surrounding the face and extended by two wings that hung down to the shoulders. At the back, a simple cap which covered the hair and edged at the bottom by the bavolet, a flap designed to cover the neck. Together these formed a shape akin to a monastic hood or camail which adjusted slowly to the demands of practicality and the dictates of fashion. The camail was too heavy for labouring in fields, so, it was cut; the shellfish gatherers of the coastal regions found the wings too often sodden with sand and seawater, so, cut them in half; the shopkeeper and craftswoman, cramped in their working environments, removed the cumbersome wings completely.
The overall similarity of form can be largely attributed to three main factors: similar climatic necessity; the power of cultural norms and the influence of the large number of religious communities amongst the population. Maintaining the religious character of the headdress was important to the pious folk of Brittany, so, changes were slight: a tighter lace; a fold at the base of the cap; the careful application of pins to raise the wings above the head or even to form a rosette at the crown or simply use knots to tighten them to the chin. These were small adjustments that completely changed the character of the wearer’s face while remaining within the traditional style.
This adherence to tradition is key – in the Brittany of yesteryear what you wore formed as important a part of one’s sense of identity as the dialect you spoke; proudly anchoring you to your, identifiable, roots. Headdresses differed from region to region here and studies have shown that the disposition of each type roughly corresponds to the territories of the old deaneries. The parishes of each of these ancient deaneries shared the same basic headdress but, as noted above, subtle differences in design and arrangement meant that one headdress was not quite the same as that sported in a neighbouring parish. This created a uniqueness that was a significant source of local prestige and spurred the development of the headdress as parishes sought to express their distinctiveness by crafting and wearing finer items than their neighbours.
Headdresses were usually made at home either by the family or by a travelling artisan adept at the difficult art of coarse canvas sewing. The use of hemp or finer linen reflected the wearer’s social status but the headdress was also an indicator of the age and marital status of the wearer.



There were generally two types of head wear – a covering for everyday wear and a finer item worn during formal events, such as fetes, church pardons, confirmations and weddings. Often headdresses were handed-down through the generations and it was quite usual for the headdress worn for a girl’s confirmation to be used later for her wedding ceremony. Widows’ periods of mourning were also reflected in their headdress; in some regions bespoke headwear was worn, while in others black ribbons were added to existing head gear.
The late 18th century saw the emergence of more intricate sewing and embroidery techniques and an increased use of lace; likely a result of the abolition of the sumptuary laws after the revolution. It is worth recalling that for centuries before the revolution, modes of dress and adornment had long served in France as one of the most visible indicators of social status so it is not surprising that clothing and dress were profoundly affected by the tide of post-revolutionary changes.
Towards the latter part of the following century, the then fashion for knitted netting was steadily absorbed into the making of headdresses in Brittany. The embroidered knitted net was found to be an ideal material for the caps as it comfortably accommodated various types of embroidery and styles of netting. Many headdresses retained the character of earlier headdresses while others made an ornament of the hair. Some were frequently made in net, such as ‘the sardine head’ from Douarnenez and the Penn Kolvez (named after the town of Corlay) which in the town of Carhaix was paired with a lace collar.



The headdresses continued to evolve into the 20th century but retained two key elements: the wings and the bottom. Some became smaller, like ‘the wheelbarrow’, the headdresses of Pays Pourleth (around Guémené-sur-Scorff), others went taller, like the Bigoudène from Pays Bigouden (a small area south west of Quimper); some became bonnet-like, such as the headdresses of Léon while others remained stylistically close to the shape of the caps of the 19th century.
The materials with which the headdresses were made differed, in the main, according to the period, the region and the wealth of the wearer. Initially fashioned from a coarse canvas, headdresses were later made from tulle, organdy, fine lace and even synthetic fibres.
The wearing of the headdress fell out of fashion in the years following the Second World War and by the early 1960s it was a rare sight. However, the headdress has not been consigned to the history books and can regularly be seen worn at some Pardons and at many folk festivals. Thanks, in part, to the work of the Celtic Circles who have done much in recent years to successfully re-connect younger Bretons with their rich cultural heritage.
Some sources claim that there were once as many as 1,200 distinct regional headdresses worn in Brittany although others put the total figure closer to around 700. Whichever figure you choose, it represents a staggering level of diversity in a region just a little larger than Belgium or the state of Maryland and about half the size of Tasmania.
The gallery of headdresses below are taken from Les Coiffes Bretonnes – 100 Modèles Différents by Maurice Bigot; a work published in limited numbers in 1928.
















































































To me, these images form a wonderful record of the individual grace and rich regional distinctiveness that is now, sadly, mostly lost to us.
Hmm. Given my predilections in writing, I have a mental image of a possessed headdress. 😉
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Haha, yes!! Or a headdress that keeps the wearer from ageing 🙂
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Portrait of Dorian Gray or Skeleton Key or similar?
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Yes, along those lines 😉
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Headdress of the Witch Queen of New Orleans!
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Or the wizened widowed moss-gatherer on the moor who tends the Ankou’s horses 😉
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I always wished I lived in an era that you wore a headdress so I didn’t have to do my hair! 🤣😂🤣😂 Fascinating post!
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Thank you!! Haha, yes but imagine all the time spent pressing and ironing 😉
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There is so much cotton clothes now I do that anyway. It’s funny because I remember my mom getting so excited because they were doing away with most pure cotton clothes. As an new adult I loved not having to iron much. Now everything I get needs ironed. Drives me crazy! Lol
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While I wouldn’t trade the ease and comfort of contemporary clothing, sometimes I wish the old styles could make a comeback. Love those lace caps!
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I know what you mean! Also, there was real distinctiveness about them then.
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There is, and also a pride in style and workmanship that doesn’t exist anymore (at least not in Canada, where I live).
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Agreed and more’s the pity.
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Wow what a detailed post; I enjoyed the read, merci.
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I’m very pleased that you liked it and thank you for saying so 🙂
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This is so interesting. And the level of detail you included in this post is out of this world. Truly fascinating!
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What a wonderful thing to say! Thank you very much. I’m pleased that you enjoyed it!
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I like the higher headpieces the most. Do you know what makes them a religious symbol (you said that retaining that aspect was important, but not why it’s religious – unless I missed it)?
Love, light and glitter
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Thanks for reading and commenting. I’ll try my best to answer! The headdresses aren’t really a religious symbol but shared the same medieval roots as many of the monastic head-coverings. You’ll notice that many are strikingly similar to the headdresses worn by various orders of nuns. There were hundreds of convents and monasteries dotted throughout Brittany and this had a massive impact on the populance particularly in regard to what was considered modest dress. Many of these conventions became traditions that were strongly adhered to.
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Ah, get it. Thanks!
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What a fascinating post! So much creativity and attention to detail went into creating this distinctive head gear… Thank you for educating all of us about it.
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I’m very glad that you enjoyed it and took the trouble to say so! Thank you!
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Fascinating! I had no idea there were so many different headdresses. The lacework is incredible.
Please sign me up for the anti-ageing headdress 🙂
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I’m pleased you found it interesting. I agree, it’s amazing how many different styles there were in such a relatively small area. Hehe, sadly that headdress was lost when the city of Ker-Is was submerged long ago 🙂
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An interesting read. And lovely photographs. Was thinking of adapting some of the headdresses as part of my (as yet latent) style activism. Will let you know when I do.
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It’s really kind of you to say so, thank you! Have fun experimenting 😉
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Hi. This is to let you know that I’m going to follow your site. No pressure to reciprocate, though I’ll be glad if you do. Take care.
Neil S.
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Thank you! I’ll come over and take a look! 🙂
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Magnifique. Merci infiniment pour ce post. Les coiffes Bretonnes étaient un art. (Même si elles sont encore portées lors des Pardons). Personnellement je n’en ai jamais vu qu’à Sein. en ’76, lors d’une manoeuvre à l’armée. Seules les vieilles la portaient encore: la coiffe noire de Sein, pour les morts en mer…
Superbe.
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Merci beaucoup, c’est mon plaisir. Je suis heureux que vous l’ayez trouvé intéressant. C’est merveilleux que vous les ayez vu portés!
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C’était les dernières. Et que les vieilles. Un moment d’histoire… 🙂
Bon. On va se mettre d’accord sur le tutoiement? 😉🙏🏻😷👍🏻
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Oui! Et oui, bien sûr 🙂
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Heyy I’m a design student and i’m currently working on this headdress project and I decided to work on this particular ethnic group and this beautiful headgear. Can you please help me by telling me that what are some of the reasons for the decline of this headdress and is there a possiblity that we can redesign it so that its more accepting and cherish it for their youth ? If so what are some of the key points I should focus on while designing it. Some answers would be of great help to me , thank you .
– Manasvi
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Thanks for this. I hoped you liked it?
Some of the reasons they fell out of favour are in the post but others include daily practicality and the mass migration from the province to the big French cities. While fashions changed – as they did throughout Europe – these hats immediately identified you as Breton and thus sometimes became problematical. This is related to a wider undermining of Breton culture that took place to create a more homogeneous country.
Since the late 1980s, many movements in Brittany have made great strides in reaffirming a distinctly Breton identity. Children are again learning the language and the regional hats are worn often by women and young girls at religious and secular festivals.
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Thank you so much it was of great help ! And yes I loved it ❤
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You are very welcome!
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Wow, they were so creative
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Weren’t they?? Some are really wonderful I think! 🙂
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I could not agree w/ you more. This is truly a loss.
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It is isn’t it?? Such rich localised diversity that we just will never see again.
Thank you for reading this one!!! 🙂
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Very interesting post!
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I am most happy that you thought so! Thank you!! 🙂
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Great post! I was getting worried about you! Haven’t seen you around in December!🤗💜
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Thank you very much!! Unfortunately, I am having some local difficulties and these have meant it has been quite difficult to blog as before. Hopefully, I can get all resolved by the new year!! Stay well! 🙂
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Great post!
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Many thanks! I am glad that you enjoyed it! 🙂
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😊
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😉
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Hi! I have changed my primary site. Now it’s http://thesrishtiblog.wordpress.com.
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Thanks for the notification! 😉
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Welcome 🥰
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Dazzling array of chapeaus. I wonder what the traditional style is today.
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Agreed! Sadly, as is the way with fashions, the coiff as an item of everyday or even formal wear has completely disappeared save for the festivals or events that encourage traditional dress and dance.
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Hi. Thanks for sharing another very interesting informative post; and, supported by such wonderful images. Great read.
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As ever Goff, thank YOU for taking the time to read! I am happy that you enjoyed it! Stay safe! 🙂
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Pleasure. Great read. Stay Safe. Stay Smiling.
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Many thanks, you too!! 🙂 🙂
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They are very prim and proper. And so creative, Someone spent a lot of time designing head wear for women. I think I’ll just let mine fly free today. 😊
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Yes, some of them are quite wonderfully intricate and complicated while others seem relatively unfussy! Bit like people haha 😉
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Exactly! 🌸
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🙂
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👌👌👌✒📷💖 Again great reading with beautiful photos. Bravo!😘🌹🌹🌹
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Thank you! I am very happy that you liked it! 🙂 Stay well!
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I couldn’t agree more! 👌🏻🍀❤
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Merci, merci beaucoup! 🙂
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I like the picture #5. Seeing the woman lighting a cigarette gives it a contemporary or timeless feel! Overall, I like the dainty lace headdresses.
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Haha, yes, I know what you mean! 🙂 She certainly does not look like she would take kindly to being admonished for lighting-up either! 😉
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Those hats would make great hankies for something borrowed at wedding.. something borrowed. ❤️🌷
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Ha, yes or even as part of the bridal ensemble! 😉
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oh yes that too and now they love to wear them driving.. the younger group.. very cute! 💖
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🙂
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💖
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Such interesting headdresses, and I notice that some of the styles are coming back again today, as more and more fashionable ladies – young and old – are wearing headdresses today.
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Nr. 30, 46, 72, 78 could be right out of a fashion magazine today – of course not only in white but in other colours too, matching the outfit.
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I have looked again at the numbers you highlighted and, yes, I can quite see what you mean!! 🙂
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I am pleased that you enjoyed seeing them!! Yes, it is quite funny how some things turn full circle! 🙂
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Full circle, as always, in history, geopolitics, and last but not least – in fashion.
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Haha, yes, that is so true! So much of life seems to turn in such circles!! 😉
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Very distinctive look!
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Yes!! Amazing variety and often within just a few miles!
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I find the details about headdress fascinating and represents the righteous etiquette followed in that era. Which is similar to the current wearing of different hats by the fashionistas and the common people. It surprises me how unique it used to be and how re-cycling of styles are brought into light. After all, fashion runs with creative blood which is bound to be under creative blocks where such revisiting of earlier styles can bring in refreshing ideas. You rock like you usually do and happy to refer such authentic nostalgic dresses.
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Thank you very much! I am very glad that you liked it! Yes, I too found it amazing how the styles changed so markedly between one parish and another. Seems quite strange to us nowadays where so much, even across continents, is the same!
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Very cool! France was always a leader in fashion – so even if is not really a thing, it influenced many countries, including the United States
They had similar here and bonnets. (Like you say, not so much now) people do not wear bonnets anymore here 😄
But sometimes the lace caps… for special occasions or funerals … sometimes a veil is added (in black or white usually – depending on purpose)
Also… your review of history reminds me of the Kentucky derby … still to this day, their hats 👒 are incredible!! It’s a thing at the Kentucky Derby 🐎
I am not really one for anything on my head unless it’s a baseball cap 🧢 ❤️✌️
Although, in winter also maybe a warm winter cap that covers my ears.
Quite the fashion huh?
Funny how fashions and styles come and go. Is cool to look back and see. 😊
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Haha but practicality is as important as fashion too! 😉 Yes, fashion comes and goes and, like you, I find it fascinating how each generation and even area, takes an idea and adapts it to their own taste. It is very fortunate that so many of the old distinct styles were captured on camera! 🙂
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I’m glad things captured on camera too ❤️ is cool to see how people looked and lived!!
It’s very cool to see the different generations and items of the different areas 🙌
I love to look back in time ❤️
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Yes, it is interesting that they photographed the whole range from eight years to eighty!! Just looking at them all is like watching the journey from fresh youth to wizened old age! 😉
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I know – I love that too!!!!!!! ❤️
Both in history and I see that at work too
At work, we make movies for people to play during their receptions … is the life and times of their loved one… the family gives us their photos to make this…
We see from birth to death alot 😮 is amazing to see and think of life like that. What they saw and experienced or how they lived or aged … quite amazing and fascinating!
Very beautiful to see life in that way 😉✌️
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Yes, I agree, it is a wonderful way to look at the whole journey!
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WOW, what an amazing assortment of styles! I love intricate, delicate seamstress work. So creative! It’s really great that people are still wearing the headdresses today for various events. Keep it alive! Although the women in the first painting–I think it’s a painting? It’s very realistic looking, but…..– anyway, they don’t look very happy, lol !! I’m just glad I was able to avoid 1. the bustle (how does one sit DOWN on that thing? and 2. the corset (for obvious reasons, most importantly, breathing, lol). 🙂
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Yes, the diversity is quite amazing, isn’t it? Ha, yes, that header image is a painting or women at a Pardon but if you mean the image of the lady on her own, then that is an old post card from the 1950s. 🙂
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we have to give thanks to the safekeeping of the photos of those times, in order to see the evolution of women’s dress ware. That headliner pic– my first impression was that of nuns. Wow!
Art
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I agree, thank heavens that someone thought it worthwhile capturing such images for posterity!! 🙂
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❤❤❤
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🙂 thank you!! 🙂
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What can I say? It’s another great article! Bravo! Stay safe. Take care. Be happy.
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Thank you so very much!! Thanks also for your good wishes!! Wishing you and yours a joyful Christmas!! Stay well! 🙂
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Merry Christmas for you and your family too. 🎄❤
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Thank you! 🙂
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Such diverse, intricate and beautiful headgears! Thanks for bringing them to us.
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You are very welcome and I am happy that you enjoyed seeing them! Stay well!! 🙂
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My best wishes and greetings for the approaching new year to you!
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Thank you so much and to you and yours too! 🙂
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You are welcome.🙂
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🙂
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🙏
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What an astonishing array of photographs and bonnets! I think my favorite was the one that looked like a wizard’s cone. Some of the faces show a live well lived.
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They are wonderful aren’t they? 😉 They really capture their subjects rather well and, yes, some show the traces of a life very well lived!! 😉
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I was peeling some fresh (boiled) chestnuts that a friend had found in the Korean store?? As I cut myself and ripped my nail down to the bed, I thought, “I bet Breton peasants knew how to do this more efficiently…”
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Haha, well, obviously not laughing at your injury but the thought that someone somewhere in the depths of Brittany had a method that we need to re-discover! 😉 Although I suspect that nails were not an issue but now that you have set that hare running, I shall make a point of looking at hand in old photos!! 😉
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LOL! I think I will stick to the vacuum packed ones I get occasionally. Then I just cut myself while opening the packet…😊 I have no nails but they are weak and brittle.
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😉
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This was so fascinating. When you consider how clever the work for those time, it is quite humbling.
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I am glad that you enjoyed it!! 🙂 Like you, I think the standard of workmanship is impressive especially considering these were likely made by candlelight and folk had to scrimp and save for the material!
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Some of those are really lovely– I’d love to see a few close up. Do you know of any museums that have a collection?
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If you do make it over, the museum in Quimper has a good selection on display but there is also an antique shop in Gourin that always seems to have lots and lots for sale. So many, that one might wonder whether there is not now a market in producing “old” headdresses? 😉
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Thank you! I hope I do make it over 🙂 I’ll keep an eye out for ones for sale too. it would be a lot of work to produce convincing fakes– they’d probably almost be worth buying 😀
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😉
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Trust me– it’s not easy to fake good lace or crochet 🙂
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Ah, ok. That is good to know!
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Wow… interesting as usual
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I am glad that you thought so!! Thank you and Happy New Year!!! 🙂
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WOW what an interesting and lovely read. Images are beautiful. Loved it!
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I am very pleased that you enjoyed it and appreciate you saying so, thank you!! 🙂
Hope that you had a good Christmas and that the new year will be a healthy and happy one for you and yours! 🙂
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As always I love reading yr articles, they are very well researched and the images that accompany yr words are simply spectacular. I have a lot of catching up to do and will try and read through the ones that I have missed these past few months.
Yes I had a lovely Christmas thank you for the well wishes. I wish the same to you and yr loved ones.
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Again, many thanks indeed!! Happy New year!! 🙂 🙂
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Very interesting, thanks for sharing!
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I am happy that you thought so!! Thank YOU for taking the time to read it! Happy New Year!! 🙂
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The huge variety is astounding! Lovely post. And happy (almost) new year!!
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I am very happy that you enjoyed them!! Thank you and Happy New Year!!! 🙂
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Nice artwork ❤️
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Glad that you thought so! Stay well! 🙂
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Yea 🥰
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🙂
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Loved the collection of photos and the information, I hadn’t realised headpieces were so widespread, the old lady lighting the cheroot is my favourite.
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I am happy that you liked them!! Yes, they were surprisingly widespread once.
Ha, yes, that one is a gem isn’t it? The lady must have been a bit of a celebrity in her day as I have seen her featured on at least two old postcards too 🙂
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Such beautiful head-dresses and such skill. How difficult many of them would have been to wear but how lovely to
actually have them on. Knitting, embroidering and crocheting in fine cotton lets me see the hours of work in these
lovely confections. Thank you for another interesting Post.
Gwen.
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I am very pleased that you enjoyed seeing them and appreciate you taking the time to do so! Thank you Gwen! 🙂 Hope that you are staying healthy?
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Not so much but it’s getting better, thank you! I’m writing again, anyway, and that’s a big step forward.
Gwen.
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Good to hear! Small steps maybe but, thankfully, in the right direction!! 🙂
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I love your page! I am learning so much from it!
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Thank you very much for saying so! I am happy that you like it! Stay safe! 🙂 🙂
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Loved seeing all the variations of bonnets and headdresses. Wearing scarves and hijab in my daily life, makes me appreciate the importance of head-wear for daily and for special occasions..The bonnet becomes an inseparable part of the clothing and the person wearing it..If for some reason , a bonnet fell off, I could imagine how they might feel almost naked in public without one:) Thank you again for your impeccable informative style.
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Many thanks for taking the time to look at them!! Yes, I agree, the effort behind each headdress must have been incredible especially when you consider how poor the light must have been under which they worked. As you say, it became an inseparable part of daily life and thus something which everyone accepted that the effort spent in creating them was well worth while! 🙂
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Oh my yes… I didn’t even think about the poor light! They all look labored with love with pride in their work!
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Yes, it is fascinating to see those faces and wonder might have become of them!
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I realize now that I have not been getting notification of your posts. I think I have it fixed now. I was able to find the one about the head dresses. I think that I would have liked to live in an era when these were popular. I am fond of hats. I really enjoyed all the pictures and information! Hope you are well.
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I am very pleased that you were able to re-connect! 🙂 Thank you and I am happy that you enjoyed the read and the photos! 🙂
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How amazing that many headdresses to ppl new forms in the new world stemming from America’s colonies and then into various sects in society and work-status symbolisms.
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